Lucknow, Feb 24: Almost everyone even remotely connected with garments, apparel and fashion has heard of chikankari. But how many people know that there are over 40 types of hand stitches involved in chikankari embroidery work. How many people know that one embroider working almost 18 hours a day takes over a week and more to complete a single garment. We want to showcase and present the efforts involved in preparing such a collection, says fashion designer Umair Zafar.
Umair Zafar’s Summer Collection which will be showcased and launched in Lucknow on March 1, features about 1200 outfits and the total value of the garments is over Rs 1.5 crore – possibly the biggest collection to be released at one go by a fashion designer in India. It will be retailed through various multi-brand stores in India as well as through Urban fashion – the label of multi-brand stores Zafar launched last year.
These outfits, which have provided employment to almost 250 embroiders in Mumbai and Lucknow, will be on display at a glitzy fashion event in Lucknow, the home of chikankari and the city boasts of a geographical indication or GI – like Switzerland has for mechanical watches for Chikankari embroidery. And thanks to Umair Zafar the dying art of traditional Chikankari will be showcased to an international audience with at least 3 international TV channels covering the fashion event live.
Chikankari is delicate and artfully done hand embroidery on a variety of textile fabrics like muslin, silk, chiffon, organza, net etc. White thread is embroidered on cool, pastel shades of light muslin and cotton garments.
These days chikan embroidery is also done with coloured and silk threads in different colours to sync with recent fashion trends and keep chikankari trendy with changing fashion and fabric.
Lucknow is the heart of the Chikankari industry today and the variety is known as Lucknawi chikan. The stich-work includes the following types of stitches – Tepchi, Bakhiya, Hool, Zanzeera, Rahet, Banarasi, Khatau, Phanda, Murri, Jali, Turpai, Darzdari, Pechani, Bijli, Ghaspatti, Makra, Kauri, Hathkadi, Banjkali, Sazi, Karan, Kapkapi, Madrazi, Bulbul-chasm, Taj Mahal, Janjeera, Kangan, Dhania-patti, Rozan, Meharki, Chanapatti, Baalda, Jora, Keel kangan, Bulbul, Sidhaul, Ghas-ki-patti and a few others.
Umair Zafar has done an in-depth research and study on Lucknowi Chikankari and its various forms of stitches. In order to promote the art, he will be showcasing a premium range of chikankari work with an amalgamation of different fabrics, mix and match with various other embroideries and fabrics like muslin, brocade and silk along with Swarovski crystals. The collection will be in different colors, ranges and sizes to suit all body types, which is rarely found in traditional chikankari work.
At least 4-5 Bollywood actors including Rituparna Sengupta and Purab Kohli will add to the glam component and help designer Umair Zafar to promote the art of Lucknowi Chikankari to a discerning and elite audience at the M B Club at Lucknow on March 1, 2014.
